In the Jianghu of skin care products, polypeptide, an active substance, has always been a hidden sword. When nicotinamide, vitamin A alcohol and vitamin C are inseparable, it stands behind silently to watch and fight, never to fight.

Until these two years, when all kinds of cosmetics brands have developed vigorously and offered their own "big killing tools", polypeptides that have been born for more than 20 years can finally stand in front of people.

Today we're going to talk about peptide.

In order to better popularize the common sense of polypeptide, I opened the middle school textbook 15 years ago (inadvertently exposed the age) and found the chapter "protein and amino acid". For us, protein is the most important structural component besides DNA and RNA. There are a lot of proteins in various important organs and tissues (not egg proteins).

If we take a sharp knife to split the protein completely, we will find that no matter what the protein is, it is basically composed of 20 basic amino acids. Generally, a protein will contain hundreds to thousands of amino acids. If the knife is not sharp enough (it can be sharpened and fed in a few years), it just splits the protein into sections, then the east of each section East is actually called polypeptide.

Strictly speaking, less than 20 amino acids are called oligopeptides, and more than 20 are called polypeptides (such as various EGF and other growth factors), but in fact, there is not such a strict distinction in skin care products. People in Hong Kong and Taiwan call this structure peptide, so they can often hear the saying of three peptide and five peptide.
Why can peptides become an important active substance?

In fact, although protein is a big lump of things, it is usually a very short and small structure that can really work in vivo, or carry out signal transmission and exchange with other proteins. It's like buying a huge durian home, knocking and beating it. After splitting it, we found that the pulp in it was just a little bit.

It's the same with protein. If the structure is cracked in a certain way, and the redundant parts are removed, all that remains is the polypeptides that play a core role. These polypeptides have become the stars of today's skin care industry. They play a big role. Of course, the price is also very expensive.

Usually these short peptides are synthesized by artificial means, but this is not over, because our skin is a very dense structure, which can keep most of the external pollution away. An active substance must work through the skin, which is related to its hydrophilicity, molecular weight and three-dimensional structure. Sometimes the molecular weight of polypeptide itself is relatively large (more than 500 daltons), and there are hydrophilic groups, so the cuticle of skin is refused to enter.

So smart scientists have also modified the structure of polypeptides and added palmitic acid or other lipophilic groups to make polypeptides more skin friendly. That's why most of the polypeptides we see are called palmitoyl XX peptide or acetyl XX peptide (the names of polypeptides are really confusing, let alone). Some of them will be encapsulated with liposomes to make them more permeable Some.
There is a rumor in the Jianghu that the function of polypeptide is related to its length, and various polypeptides have been named, such as whitening Jiusheng peptide and anti wrinkle Sansheng peptide (referring to nine amino acids and three amino acids polypeptides respectively). In fact, they are a bit of nonsense, because there are too many kinds of polypeptides, and the function of polypeptides of the same length may be completely different, the key is that It depends on whose raw materials are used and what experiments are available to verify them!

So the next step is to officially analyze the peptide!

What, are you just talking nonsense!

According to the existing research, polypeptides, as skin care products, mainly play a role in the following four aspects:

Signal molecule

Neurotransmitter blocker (botulinoid)

Metal ion carrier

enzyme inhibitor

Signal molecule:

Every skin cell is like a non-stop factory, in which all kinds of DNA transcription, RNA translation and protein synthesis are taking place at all times. Every step needs countless signal molecules to influence. Signal molecules are just like the starting gun of a hundred meter run. When the gun rings, athletes can run.

But with the growth of age (sad stories) or the disorder of daily life (such as watching the ball at the world cup), some signal molecules are not so obedient, they can't even shout, and some signal molecules simply "urinate" and don't know where to go for fun. At this time, polypeptide will help.
The most famous one is palmitoyl pentapeptide-4. As the originator of peptide industry, this peptide (Matrixyl ®) from Croda company is a fragment molecule of procollagen, which can stimulate the production of collagen I, II and VI. it has been proved in many clinical trials that it can reduce the generation of wrinkles.

Unfortunately, this peptide has been monopolized by P & G. it has been widely spread as a classic ingredient in the magnolia oil red bottle and SK-II red bottle. It has also appeared in the recently launched bubble cream of magnolia oil.

Later, Croda was not reconciled to the idea of why not sell my polypeptide to other people, so it launched a new Matrixyl -1 3000, which changed the flag (palmitic three peptide -1 and palmitic four peptide -7).

Another slightly new peptide comes from DSM company in Switzerland, whose name is syn ® - coll (palmitoyl tripeptide-5). Its special structure can "wake up" the cytokine TGF - β, let it not be lazy, get up to work quickly, increase horsepower to produce collagen, inhibit the activity of MMP (matrix metalloproteinase), and protect the degradation of collagen. Of course, as a large factory, it naturally Having a series of clinical trial data.

Petrov's essence and Elta MD's eye cream all add this polypeptide, which seems to have great confidence in its ability to resist wrinkles. Unilever's cosmetics brand Dermalogica even added it to a sunscreen cream, which is quite different.
Neurotransmitter blocker (botulinoid)

Botulinum toxin injection is a common way for ladies to cure (touch your pocket first), because botulinum toxin can block the release of neurotransmitters, relax muscles, and many false wrinkles will soon disappear. But after all, botulinum toxin is a bit fierce, and it's easy to suffer from facial paralysis if you don't fight well, so it produces various peptides with the action of botulinum toxin.

The famous Argireline ® (acetylhexapeptide-8) and syn ® - ake (dipeptide diaminobutyrylbenzamide diacetate) are peptides that play this role. They can specifically block the release of neurotransmitters in facial muscles and have a relatively significant anti-aging effect.

Although the principle sounds scary, but the safety of polypeptide is really no, it doesn't matter if you eat a ton (if you have enough money).

Estee Lauder's "line carving essence", which was very popular in the past few days, was used as the endorsement of our great power. It claims to be able to pull all the way tightly, which is a luxurious addition of 10% Argirelline.

Another Spanish cosmetics brand, singuladerma, relies on its parent company's production of argirelline. Without middlemen to take the difference, it directly launched a 20% emergency bottle (saliva drips down), which immediately overshadowed Estee Lauder's prestige.

Syn ® - ake, the so-called "snake venom peptide" that gets inspiration from snake venom (of course, it's not poisonous, it's inspiration), has appeared in the eye cream of martiderm, a Spanish cosmetics brand, which has been on the rise recently. Another low-key high-end medical beauty brand, filoga, has also added this ingredient to its own eye cream.
Metal ion carrier:

Some polypeptides often swim in our skin and blood. They don't seem to do business at ordinary times. In fact, their function is to transport important metal ions, such as copper ions and manganese ions, to places where they need to be.

Because these ions are the raw materials of many important enzymes, such as SOD enzyme, cytochrome c oxidase and so on. Especially when our skin is aging or producing wounds, these peptides are busy.

The most famous one is GHK Cu, which was first discovered more than 40 years ago. It has many endorsements in stimulating collagen synthesis, enhancing immunity and anti-aging effect. Some experiments even prove that it is a little more powerful than the gold standard retinoic acid of anti-aging. In terms of price, it is said to be more expensive than gold.

Because of the copper ion in the blue copper peptide, its solution shows a strange blue color, especially like the magic potion in Harry Potter. The Ordinary's parent company has introduced a blue copper peptide essence (1% concentration) before the NIOD, and two small bottles mix and shake when they are used, and a bottle of anti-aging magic potion is prepared.

AHC's all-round eye cream, as a standard "northeast stew" product, will also add the famous blue copper peptide, but I don't know if the skin can stand so many active substances.

Pet name also has a blue copper peptide essence, with hyaluronic acid + peptide combination, it is very simple and clear, clear function, it seems that even the same raw material, it also depends on the brain and thinking of the chemist.
Enzyme inhibitors:

As an enzyme inhibitor, peptides are rare. They are the minority components in peptides. They are often the hydrolysates of some natural proteins, such as soybean protein, rice protein or silk protein.

These polypeptides are very direct. They inhibit some enzymes in the skin, such as the enzymes responsible for degradation of collagen (collagen hydrolase, matrix metalloproteinase, etc.), so collagen still exists in the skin tissue, and the aging process is slowed down. However, whether this effect will disturb the normal and new skin Chen metabolizes, also did not know.

Although this kind of peptide is very small, I find that some famous brands secretly use these ingredients, such as CLARINS and Helena's star essence, though not mentioned in the advertisement claim, but we still think it works.

I'll tell you the story of polypeptides. Although the effect is remarkable, polypeptides have always been used by famous lady products due to the high cost and other reasons. In the past two years, they have been pushed into the spotlight by some cosmetics brands. Fortunately, the fragrance of wine is not afraid of the depth of the alley. This sharp sword of anti-aging will one day "fly into the ordinary people's home" for everyone to use, and it will be less to return The face of a woman.

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About Shengnuo

Chengdu Shengnuo Biotechnology Co., Ltd. has "Chengdu polypeptide drug engineering technology research center" in Chengdu, mainly engaged in polypeptide, polypeptide drug and beauty peptide research. Our zero defect has passed the FDA certification, and now it has become the first-class professional peptide drug and product development, technology transfer, technical service and peptide drug industry in the scale production and export of China's parks.